Are Canada Geese Actually Getting Smarter Each Fall?

By B.C. Maximas

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What has changed over the past 5 years that has so many goose hunters spending more and more money on new decoys and gear each year? And why has it become not only important to continually upgrade your decoy spread, but imperative to have a quality set-up to consistently kill Canada geese day in and day out, the same geese that we were killing over the standard, fail-safe Big Foot decoy spreads that worked so well for so many years.

The answer I feel is that Canada geese are getting conditioned to specific decoy situations. When people say “Geese are getting smarter and smarter each year” I think that is a mis-diagnosis. In my opinion the geese are not getting smarter but they are getting more conditioned. Let me explain the difference. If on opening day a family of geese tries to land in your spread of 40 big foots and they get shot at, the remaining birds are starting to get conditioned that this scenario is “Bad News”.

The more times that a goose tries to land in a decoy spread of 40 big foot decoys and gets shot at, the quicker it starts to recognize that this situation is “Bad News” and thus convinces the bird to flare off of that specific decoy situation as soon as it can recognize the same set-up….over and over again. And go figure, these geese are now able to figure it out at longer and longer distances. So those “Sky Busters” that have decided that the only chance they have to get a shot is to take em at 50 – 60 yards are only make matters worse.

I like to compare goose hunting to dog training. When you first take your new pup out and start to teach him the commands; sit, stay and come, he does not have a clue what you are talking about but I bet after 2 weeks in his new home he figures out exactly what the word “NO” means. That is because you have conditioned him to realize that when you say “NO” he had better stop what he is doing or else. Your pup didn’t get “Smarter” he was “Conditioned” to the word No. The same thing is happening when we are out goose hunting. In essence when we shoot at a flock of birds we are telling them “NO”. Geese are simple creatures; they do not realize that we are trying to trick them into landing in our decoys for sport or food. All they realize is that when they get too close to what they configure as a “Decoy Spread” and not real birds, then something bad happens.

Watch what happens the next time you are in your back yard with a red shirt on and no shotgun and a flock of geese flies over. They don’t flare, they don’t even realize that you are there or most likely they don’t care. But if all of a sudden guys in red coats started shooting at them time after time, we would be conditioning them to flare away from guys in red coats. This is why early season birds are easier to hunt. The young birds have not been conditioned to hunters yet and the old birds have relaxed a little bit as they have not been hunted for several months. Call it getting smarter or conditioned, in essence the same result is happening but the solution to the problem is very different in my opinion.

To further examine this way of thinking I did a study last year on the opening weekend of the Early Goose season. After the first morning’s hunt, I took the next two mornings off and instead of hunting, I decided to let the weekend warriors have at it for the next two days while I studied how the birds reacted to the other hunter’s spreads. Although it was very entertaining watching some of the novis hunters at work, I also noticed something very interesting. I noticed that over 70% of the decoy spreads that I examined that weekend looked exactly the same. They consisted of approximately 40 – 50 Avery Canada goose decoys, (the latest fad in decoys) set up in a half moon configuration with 4 – 6 large, dark rectangular shaped layout blinds set up directly in the middle of the spread with one hunter flagging and one hunter calling. And guess what, after only one or two days of hunting, over half of the flocks that I watched, from a distance, had the exact same reaction. They came in wings set from 100 yards out, circled once at 45 – 50 yards and flew away unscathed.

So what is the answer then? Many hunters that I know personally watch every year as new products and decoys on the market come and go on and they let everybody else “field test” these new products to see what works before they invest their hard earned money into something new. That is all well and good, and money wise is probably the smart way to go, but I feel they are losing the edge. If the above way of thinking is correct, then hunters such as myself who are the first ones to try out these new products and decoys each year, are offering these “Smart Geese” something new that they have not been conditioned to before and thus are having higher success for longer periods of time. Unlike those hunters who are waiting until the birds are conditioned to these new products or decoys before adding then into their spread. Now don’t get me wrong, I have a garage full of hunting equipment that didn’t cut the mustard, but I also have several products that I have been using successfully for many years that are just becoming “Popular” for the mainstream goose hunting crowd.

At this time I would like to share several products that I have found to be unique and exciting for this year’s upcoming hunting season. Keep in mind that there is a time and place for every product out there and don’t get discouraged and discard an item if it does not work wonders the first time out. Many additional factors come into play during each hunt, such as having an experienced goose caller or two in the spread, having an inexperienced hunter with who doesn’t know how to keep covered up properly, a dog that can’t sit still or maybe on that day it just wasn’t meant to be. However if used as each product was designed, these new products have proven to be successful for many hunters.

The first product was designed by The Smart Stick Company. It is called “The Goose Tree”. This product gets the attention of geese from a long distance off as it emulates a small flock of landing birds. It also takes the attention off of the hunters and places it on the “Tree”. Now be sure to remember that when you set up the Goose Tree. This is a product that you will want to place away from your blinds, not in the same sight plane, as the geese approach. What I personally like best about this product is that there are not many hunters out there using it right now and it is something the majority of the geese have not seen yet.

Another new product I like that has been overlooked to some extent is the plastic corn decoy that Avery came out with a few years back. They throw a couple in with each box of new Canada goose decoys to try and promote it to hunters. I personally spent about $60.00 and was able to get close to 8 dozen ears of corn. Now do I use these every time out- No. But it is just another weapon to add to my arsenal. And let me tell you when used in the right situation it is definitely a head turner.

The Goose Tree & Sillosock Decoys

A third product that has proven to be affective is the Canada goose Jack Kite. This is a flying decoy that emulates a Canada goose hovering over the spread and can be seen from very far distances. Now this is a product that has been around for many years but for some reason has not caught on as well with Canada goose hunters as it has with snow goose hunters. Most likely because this is a fragile item that needs to be taken care of and also needs a minimum of 5 – 7 mph of wind to work. But given the right conditions and using proper care it can be a very effective tool.

The last idea that I would like to present is that when the next “Great Decoy” hits the market and is priced to sell, don’t jump on that band wagon as it won’t be long until every other hunter out there has the exact same spread as you do. Instead, try picking out a decoy spread that is not the same as everyone else is currently using. That is why I decided to invest in a spread of high-end goose decoys. Not only because they are very realistic looking, but because I am confident that Joey down the street is not going to make that kind of investment in his goose spread and thus it should be an effective spread for many years to come. Other hunters I know, who do not have the money to invest but have the time and motivation have elected to create and build their own decoys from scratch and have been very successful. I also encourage hunters to try different set-ups for different times of year. If everybody else is bulking up their spread in the late season, try scouting a little harder to make sure that you are on the “X” and only throw out a dozen of your best decoys.

In this goose hunter’s opinion, to be as successful at the end of the hunting season as at the beginning, we need to try different approaches and tactics that these geese have not been conditioned to yet. I hope this article has opened some new ideas for a few of you and hopefully will help you to try some new products and ideas before every other goose hunter out there has jumped on it first. And for you avid snow goose hunters, I wonder how affective a spread of 300 – 500 Canada goose sillosock decoys would be. I bet Joey down the street won’t have anything that looks like that next fall.

Dave Smith Canada Goose Decoys

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Top 5 Criteria To Look For In A Fishing Report

By Dan Johnson
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As you look through a fishing report to figure out what to expect for your trip, make sure you have answers to the following necessary criteria. When met, you can ensure that the information you are reading is a reliable resource. Listed below are the 5 Criteria to look for in a Fishing Report.

1. Credibility
The first piece of criteria that you need to locate is the actual credibility of the fishing report. Who is putting the information together? and where it is coming from? is extremely important. If the report appears to be a general opinion of how the fishing should be instead of how it actually is, it may be time to find a new source of information.

Along with looking at who is putting the report together, question their reason for the report. There are countless reports available and knowing the actual reason that someone puts in the effort to make a report can tell you a lot. Most of the time if an Outfitter or Guide is creating a weekly report on the recent fishing trips, they are creating it to show the success they are having to current and future clients. This helps increase the excitement leading up to the trip as well. These types of reports also attract new business through the report of past trips. Due to the fact that the amount of fish caught and conditions of the day were shared with a group of people, these reports are usually extremely accurate and a reliable resource to use.

2. Consistency
The consistency of how often a fishing report is updated is the second criteria to keep in mind. Many reports are updated weekly and give an overview of how the past week’s fishing has been.
Other reports are updated every day or sometimes only once a month To get as accurate of a report as possible, the more often there is a new report available the better. .This will ensure a more accurate account of the latest fishing information, rather than a broad perception on how the fishing and bite has been. If there is a report available that you can compare from last year to the reports you are currently using this would be an excellent source of information. Weather patterns and spawning seasons each year are fairly consistent and have an effect on the fishing.

3. Weather
Using a fishing report that consistently talks about how the weather has been with an upcoming forecast, and how that has affected the fishing is a huge benefit. .The weather can be the biggest factor in a good day of fishing with a lot of bites or virtually none at all The weather patterns and moon cycles all play a role in not only how aggressive the fish are, but also where there will be a good chance to find the fish. Following fishing reports of an outfitter that you have scheduled a fishing trip with will give you a good idea of how your trip will be if you have good or bad weather conditions. Knowing how the outfitter will react beforehand, due to past experiences, will give you confidence that you will stay on the fish and are going to have a great trip.

4. Fishing Modifications
Another piece of information to look for in a good fishing report is whether there is any mention of having to modify the fishing from day to day in order to keep getting a good bite. While there are many different factors that come into play of why the fishing can change, how modifications are made to the fishing style is information to look for. While no one ever wants to mention bad fishing or terrible weather, the best reports are those which discuss the challenges that were faced and how they were overcome to still have a great day on the water. Simple things such as changing lures, bait, location, fishing over different bottom structures, or time of day, are all important pieces of information to look for in a fishing report. The reports where each day sounds like it was the best day of fishing there has ever been can sometimes be one sided and unrealistic. Anyone who has ever experienced the outdoors knows that there are always going to be days that are better than others, but how you make each day enjoyable and successful is the challenge that keeps us coming back for more! I would encourage you to look for fishing reports that are honest about days where the fishing may have not been the best, but what was done to keep the bites coming.

5. Fishing Techniques
One of the most over looked pieces of information that needs to get attention in a fishing report is the fishing techniques that are being used. If you do not use a boat and prefer to fish from shore the style of fishing is going to be quite a bit different. While there still may be good information that you would be able to use, finding those fishing reports that are as close to your style of fishing are only going to increase your chances of being successful. Pay attention to what state the report you are following is in as well. The different fishing laws that change from state to state will play a role in how you can use a fishing report to your advantage. For example, if you can fish with two or more lines in the water in your home state, the techniques from a fishing report where they can only use one is going to be very different. Being aware of the differences will help prevent unnecessary frustrations.

Many fishing reports are going have their own unique pieces of information that you may find useful. Ensuring that as many of these criteria are met as possible, will give you confidence that you are following a report that is going be the best for you!
Good Luck!

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How High Is Too High?

By BC Maximas
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“This is as close as their going to get, it’s now or never…Take Em!” That is a phrase that is heard all too often in the field these days. Weather it is because waterfowl are getting smarter each year or that the hunting pressure is getting higher; many hunters are having trouble getting the birds to decoy in close enough for a clean kill and are resorting to shooting at birds that are just too far away.

At some point the ethics of hunting has to come into play. Talk to any serious bow hunter and you will find out what dedication to the sport of hunting truly is. It is not uncommon for an avid bow hunter to spend weeks or even months in a tree to get one chance at a trophy buck. He will spend countless hours target practicing in preparation for that one shot. In many instances when that one opportunity comes along, the shot is just too far away for a clean kill and he elects to pass out of respect for the animal. I have never heard a bow hunter say “I had that big 12 pointer at about 75 yards and he wasn’t getting any closer so I let a couple arrows fly just to see what would happen”.

However duck and goose hunters seem to take pride in telling their friends that the bird they shot had to be at least 80 yards up there! And unfortunately when one stray pellet drops a bird at a great distance, now that hunter seems to feel that distance is a killable shot. They fail to take into account that although one in a hundred shots at that range may kill a bird, there are dozens and dozens more birds that are hit but do not go down right away and end up suffering and dying weeks later in a slough far away. Weather it is a trophy buck or a green wing teal, our natural resources need to be treated as a treasure and not a video game.

Over the many years of guiding novice hunters, as well as spending time in the field with seasoned outfitters, I have seen and heard it all. One of the most common questions that gets asked before a hunt is: what sized shot do I need? Inside of 30 yards most any size waterfowl load will kill a bird if it is in the pattern. Recently though, the craze in the industry is for the use of after market, tight patterned choke tubes and 31/2” inch shells. The ammunition manufactures are making claims of being able to take birds at longer and longer distances with this new cutting edge technology. However tight choke tubes are not as effective for shots taken under 30 yards. Have we not gotten away the true sport of hunting? At the basic level, the sport should be about matching wits with nature to proficiently harvest game for the consumption of its meat. Sure it is rewarding to watch a big Canada goose fold clean at 40 yards and drop stone cold to the ground. There is always a personal satisfaction that comes from a clean kill that you personally made.

However for me, it is just as rewarding having a flock of Canada geese fly by so close you can feel their wing beats over your blind. Or having the birds almost touch down in the decoys before taking the shot. It is also much more productive taking birds in the 20 – 30 yard range. If on a certain day the birds are flaring off of your decoys at 60 yards, instead of taking a bad shot and hoping that you might get lucky and break a wing, get up and make corrections to the spread or camo your blind better so they next flock will come in close enough for a clean kill. It is very unrewarding for the ethical hunter to watch a bird sail away and even drop dead a mile out in some marsh, where there is no way to ever retrieve the bird.

I also hear many hunters say at the end of a hunt that they do not want the birds they shot, especially Canada geese and Snow geese. They just don’t like the taste of the birds. I rarely hear an argument at the end of a pheasant hunt over who is going to take the harvested game home. In fact some hunters are as pompous as to expect their outfitter to dispose of the birds for them! My feeling is if you do not like the taste of the game you are hunting, maybe it is time to start hunting something you do enjoy eating. After all, going back to our ancestors, the reason we are hunters is to put food on the table for our family…right?

To end this article on a positive note, I know there are many, many hardcore waterfowl hunters out there who have the experience and knowledge to get their birds to decoy in close and make a clean kill. Being a mentor and a roll model to not only a kid but to an inexperienced hunter can be a great thing. Let’s spend time with a young hunter well in advance of bringing them out on their first hunt. Get that new hunter through a gun safety program and then out to a sporting clays range in the “pre-season”. This will give them the confidence that they can make a clean kill. It will also show them what their limitations are. Then teaching that hunter how to set up a decoy spread and when to call the shot is a much more rewarding feeling than taking them out on their first hunt with no knowledge of what is going on and watching that new hunter struggle and miss shot after shot because they really didn’t have a chance to begin with.

For those hunters who are new at the game and do not have a person to teach them how to be successful in the field, booking a hunt with a quality, reputable outfitter can be a much better option then investing a lot of hard earned money on a lot of unnecessary gear and equipment. As always the best advice for anything is; practice, practice, and practice. Join a summer trap and skeet league and become a competent shot. Then learn some great recipes on how to cook the game you are planning to hunt before you even harvest your first bird. Trust me, if you can shoot well and are excited to take your game home, you will most likely be invited back to hunt with any group. And finally treat each bird or animal as if it were a true trophy…it truly is!

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Turkey Hunting Tips And Tactics

By Jim Bennett
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I was driving to work the other morning when I spotted at least 15 turkeys out in an open field. Several of them were fighting and strutting! Others were pecking and scratching! They were obviously establishing their pecking order for breeding dominance as I drove past. I wanted to stop and watch but I knew my boss didn’t want me too! I have a boss who can really be a turkey. I’m sure many of you can relate! I kept driving but it was hard because my Wisconsin turkey season is just around the corner!

About a mile down the road I spotted a half dozen turkeys standing out in a field but they weren’t moving! Then I spotted the blind! It was hunter set up with a half dozen hard bodied decoys! I honked as I drove past because this guy was set up right next to the road. There was not a gobbler or hen in sight. I was hoping my horn honk might have triggered a gobble from a nearby Tom turkey I had just passed! In the spring Toms often gobble in response to just about any loud noise!

Lucky hunters all across the US are heading out to their blinds right now. The rest of the would-be turkey hunters are practicing their calling and planning to head out with hopes of being able to fool a big old spring gobbler. People who live in the same households with turkey hunters are going a little nuts this time of year with the constant practicing around the house. The person calling loves it but those forced to listen to the yelping, gobbling, clucking and purring are just about ready to ring a few necks! Many a turkey caller has been banned to the basement and garage this time of year in order to maintain any kind of peace in their homes.

I fell in love with turkey hunting the first year I ever went. That was Wisconsin’s first ever turkey season more than 20-years ago and I haven’t missed more than a couple seasons since…. only because I wasn’t drawn. Since then I have figured out how to get drawn every year! That key is to be flexible with your choices and take any tag in just about any zone with an abundance of tags!

Starting this spring in Wisconsin turkey permits remaining after the initial drawing are being issued on a first come, first served basis by the DNR. The left over permits are available at any license sales location, over the phone, or online. The fee for those permits will be $10 for residents, and $15 for nonresidents. All hunters will also be required to pay the spring turkey license and stamp fee, unless they have previously purchased the license or stamp, or a Conservation Patron license holder. Residents and nonresidents will have equal opportunity to purchase these permits. Purchasing these permits will not affect your preference status for future spring or fall turkey permit drawings. Purchases are limited to one permit per day until each zone and time period is sold out.

So what are the secrets of spring turkey hunting? Some are so simple and others are things you will just have to learn over time by spending time in the turkey woods. But there are a couple simple keys that I can share with you. Just remember things can change just like the weather for even the best turkey hunter. And weather, the availability of hens and other hunters are always the biggest obstacles a turkey hunter has to put up with. You don’t have control over those factors but you can handle them if you are smart!

Rain and snow can change the whole picture. Over the years I have found that turkeys are often very active in bad weather. In rain I often find gobblers out in the middle of large open fields. It’s sort of like they don’t like to walk through brush or thick cover in the rain. They get wetter that way when they brush against tall grass and brush. All birds know that wet feathers and cold are fatal when they coincide.

Think about it for a second. When you walk through tall grass and brush in the rain your pants get soaked! Even after a rain! You don’t like it and turkeys don’t like it either. So find open areas when it rains and sit up in the best cover closest to them. Turkeys can’t get in their cars and drive around in the rain. That is something I did when I first started turkey hunting and sure enough I saw the turkeys right out there in the open where I should have been. Now I own the best rain suit I can afford and dress for the cold wet weather. I might be wet and cold on the outside but I’m warm and dry on the inside in rain or snow!
In snow, and we who live up north know that early season turkey hunters often get snowed on will learn that turkey are active in snow also. But they will stick to their normal haunts, feeding areas, strut zones and roosting trees on the lips of hills! Treat snow just like rain.

The worst weather obstacle I hate that usually comes with the snow is cold. For some reason gobblers get lock jaw in cold weather! You may hear a few early gobbles right at daybreak but once they are on the ground they usually quiet down and the turkey woods seems dead!

There is no other sport as boring as turkey hunting when gobblers aren’t gobbling. It just takes all of the fun away. That is why you have to do your work and scout right up to the day your season begins! You have to really know the area. Where do they like to roost, strut and where are the fly down zones? If you know those locations you are going to be successful in cold weather!

There is nothing more exciting that sitting in a field or pasture and having a big turkey come pitching out of a tree a half mile away and come sailing right at you. I’ve had some land so close that the pressure of their wings landing has moved my decoys. They sound almost like jets coming in at you that way. Talk about getting your heart pumping!

Decoys are a must for turkey hunting. When you place them out in a field a ways from where you are sitting it takes their attention off you and your calling to the decoy. This gives you an advantage that hunters who don’t use decoys fail to gain. I like to mix a few different kinds together and have a couple in the mix that move! That can really fool old Tom Turkey! Be sure you place your decoys in your shooting range for obvious reasons.

The new pop-up blinds are great but I don’t like to haul around too much gear so I don’t use them. Good camouflage clothing works well enough for me but you still have to be still. Turkeys might not have the largest brain in the world but they are about the weariest woodland critter I have ever seen. Deer will stand there and look at you when they see you or spot a bit of movement. Sort of like they want to identify you before they split. Not turkeys. As soon as they spot movement they are gone in a heart beat. It doesn’t matter how close you might be either. They are as wary as they come.

But they are vulnerable to calling! And don’t be afraid to use a call. I carry several calls. Some times up to a dozen or more out in the field. These include locator calls and several turkey calls. My favorite locator call is a crow call. Crows are everywhere and their calls go unnoticed in most cases. When a Tom turkey is hot for a hen he will gobble to crow calls. Plus crow calls won’t attract other hunters. A gobble call used as a locator will attract other hunters. That is why I don’t use gobble calls to get turkeys to shock gobble back at me. I don’t want to call in other hunters when I use a shock gobble call. Same goes for when you have a gobbler coming in gobbling to your set up. Don’t over call or you could call in another hunter that could ruin your hunt!

I like to be aggressive but not pushy when I go into the turkey woods. I like to get set up close to a roosted gobbler I put to bed the night before so I’ll be right in his bedroom at daybreak. Let me rephrase that. I want to be in the woods and set up at last an hour before the season opens so I don’t get busted setting up at daybreak! I scout late afternoon towards dusk and try to spot a gobbler going to roost. In most cases I already know where they like to roost so it’s easy to put them to bed! I like to set up in fly down places at first light so I have to know where the strut zones are. Another good location to set up is where the hens feed at first light and let them walk in to your set up.

Around noon I may move closer to secondary feeding areas like picked corn or pastures with lots of cow pies in it. Hens love to tip over cow pies for grubs. Midmorning means it’s time to hit hilltops and other locations where turkeys like to gobble. But be careful there because often times the gobbler might already be on the hill tops by the time you get there. They often return to the hills where they strut in the early morning around noon if hens are on the nests. You’[ll soon learn that hot spots are hot spots several times during the day!

But don’t just scout for gobblers. I am always looking for where the hens are working. Where are hens feeding, where are hens dusting, where are hens nesting and where are hens roosting? Why? Because in the spring the gobblers are going to follow the hens wherever they wander. It’s mating season and that is all the old gobbles have on their minds right now. If you could only mate once a year you’d be doing the same thing the Toms are!!

And use the right shot and be sure to pattern your gun every year. I like my old 12-gauge with straight 6-shot, 3 inch length in a magnum load for the extra power and density! You have a much denser pattern with 6’s over heavier shot and that is the key to tipping Tom turkey over. The density of your pattern is the most important factor in taking a turkey. Your target is so small you need the dense pattern to take a turkey with a single clean shot.

Think about it. The brain of a turkey is the size of your thumbnail. The spine that runs from the brain down to the neck is the width and length of a pencil. The load of six should will give you the best advantage with the combination of hitting power and thick pattern because you can get a lot more #6 shot into a 3 inch shell than a number 4 shot or two shot. I would consider 5 shot if 6 were not available but the experts I know recommend 6 shot and so do I.

You have to get the bird in close for the kill. Pattern a few shells before you hunt and know where your densest part of the pattern is. It’s not always right in the middle. Place that densest part of your pattern right where the neck meets the body. By doing that most of your densest part of the pattern will be in the neck and brain and you will have clean kill. And know the distance of your pattern. Some guns will shoot a tight pattern out to 35 yards while others might break up at 25 yards. So set a marker out to your maximum kill range and never shoot beyond that distance.

And finally be careful in the woods. Turkey hunters are great for not shooting other turkey hunters. I think hunters education might have a lot to do with that so let’s keep it that way. That’s the way it should be!

WILDLIFE QUIZ – TRUE or FALSE – Only male turkeys have beards. Answer: False — Some hens can have beards but they are pretty wimpy looking in most cases!

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Top 10 Questions You Need To Ask Before Booking With An Outfitter

Asking the right questions when searching for your next hunting or fishing trip with an outfitter can be the difference between a fantastic experience that you can’t wait to do again, or a trip where the end can’t come soon enough. Here is a list of the Top 10 Questions that everyone needs to ask before potentially booking with an outfitter.

1. What Is The Primary Game That You Hunt?
While many outfitters hunt multiple species of game throughout the year, there is usually one that they focus on as their featured hunt. When talking to the outfitter, going through this information will give you a good idea if it is going to be the right fit for you. If you are planning on going on a waterfowl hunt with an outfitter who only wants to talk about their big game hunts, then this may not be the right fit for what you are looking for. However, there are many outfitters who do a great job with all of their hunts and are extremely knowledgeable and successful no matter what game they are pursing. Knowing exactly what you are looking for before you start will help out in making sure you find the right outfitter for your next adventure!

2. How Long Have You Been A Professional Outfitter?
Looking into how much experience your outfitter has will more than likely correlate into how successful and enjoyable your adventure will be. Many outfitters have either been hunting or fishing in an area since they were kids, thus giving them a great amount of knowledge about their specific area. Some outfitters also have previous guiding experience working for another outfitter, while they were learning the industry and are now operating their own guiding business. This can be a positive or a negative point though as with any business, it may take a few years to work out the kinks. An outfitter who has been in business for at least 5 years is always a plus. In addition, when talking with an outfitter be truthful about the things about the hunt that are important to you as well as what kind of shots you are comfortable with taking, this will help the outfitter have a better idea of how to give you a successful hunt.

3. What Is Your Success Rate?
A great place to start taking a look at how the outfitter has done over the past season and before is to take a look at their photo gallery on their website (if available). Be sure to look for the animals that you plan on harvesting. If you are going deer hunting, make sure that there are pictures of deer! Many outfitters consistently update their photos from successful hunts during and after each season. This will give you reassurance that the outfitter you are planning to book with actually specializes in the game you want to harvest. However, pictures can be deceiving and not show the whole story. Make sure to talk to the outfitter about their most recent season as the area game population may be up or down for various reasons. Also, many outfitters only count success as harvested game, while others consider a shot opportunity, or even seeing game as a success and essentially what you are going to be paying them for. Getting the specifics and details of how previous hunters have fared, is extremely important.

4. What Is Your Hunting Philosophy?
Finding out what method of hunting you will be using with a specific outfitter will help you find the right hunt for you. Rather than spending the time and money getting to the outfitter’s location, if you do not agree with the methods that they use to harvest the game, it’s better to find that out before the hunt begins. For example, if the most successful way that the outfitter is able to get his clients in front of wildlife is to drive around until the desired animal is spotted. Then try to stalk the prey and this is not what you are looking for, that is important to know. Another scenario may be the type of blind you are more comfortable hunting out of. If you prefer a specific style of hunting find the outfitter who offers what you are looking for. It will also be very important to ask up from what a typical day in the field consists of beforehand to make sure that you are getting the kind of experience that you want.

5. What Is The Average Size / Amount Or Type Of Animals That You Harvest?
While no outfitter can ever guarantee that you will harvest the next world record. Some outfitters will offer a guarantee as to what caliber of game and the amount of game that you are expected to see on your hunt and having a high chance of getting a shot opportunity. With this in mind you need to know what the typical sizes of animals in the area are. In some areas seeing a whitetail buck in the 150” range is a big deer, while in others a big deer is closer to the 190” range. This is the same when hunting birds and fishing. Knowing what you can expect to see on days with good conditions and how previous trips have done in the past is again extremely important. Make sure to ask what you can expect during the dates that you are going to be with the outfitter. If you are not going to be hunting or fishing during the “peak” times, you need to know what that means, and be sure to have a realistic expectation of the game you will see.

6. What If I Harvest My Game Early Or Have To Leave Early?
What will your trip consist of if you are on a multiple day hunt, and within the first hour of hunting you filled your tag and are essentially “done” with your hunt? Knowing this ahead of time will help you plan to get the most out of your trip. Some outfitters offer the chance to buy additional tags in these cases, or you may be able to harvest another species. With others you simply get to enjoy the lodge and relax for the rest of your trip or enjoy some of the local attractions. There is also the chance that an emergency could occur and you need to leave early. Many outfitters have dealt with unexpected events before, and have a policy that they follow.

7. What Is The Payment Process?
While it may be an uncomfortable situation at times, this is a subject that needs to be made clear. Many outfitters require a down payment to lock-in the dates for your trip, with the remaining balance due upon arrival. Some outfitters don’t require payment in full until after the hunt, to focus on the experience. Feeling that they may not have yet “earned” the money till the trip is over. Keep in mind however, that if you are going with an experienced guide who has been in the business for a long time, they have definitely “earned” it before the hunt even began. With the time that they have spent scouting, getting permission to hunt, leasing hunting land, and having their equipment ready for your hunt. They have done a large amount of work preparing for you to arrive. There also are those outfitters that will ask for the deposit up front and only the remainder when you take your first shot. Knowing the process right away will make your trip much more enjoyable and avoid a potentially uneasy situation.

8. Are You Offering Any Specials?
Many outfitters do offer some great specials when hunting or fishing with them, especially if you book early so they can plan ahead for the upcoming season. These specials may include anything from taking money off the price of a trip if booked by a certain date, to a free night of lodging when you meet certain criteria such as an ideal group size. These specials are available to not only give you more opportunities to have a great trip, and hopefully return again the next year, but also to help the outfitter plan for their upcoming season more effectively. In-turn they are willing to provide you with an incentive program.

9. What Is Your Cancellation Procedure?
Health, family, work, and weather conditions, all could potentially force you to unexpectedly cancel your expedition. Finding out the policy that the outfitter follows will eliminate any concerns that you may have about any unexpected events. Depending on what is required from the outfitter when you scheduled your trip, they may keep your deposit. This is in order to offset some of their costs and lost income from not receiving the full amount from your hunt. Many outfitters only allow a limited number of hunts during each season and if they are unable to find someone to take your place there is no way for them to make that money back and keep their business running. Some outfitters will however offer you the opportunity to put your current deposit towards a future hunt. Purchasing trip cancellation insurance when available is another resource to consider.

10. Are Most Of Your Clients Repeat Or New Clients, And Do You Offer References?
Quality outfitters that have been in business for a long time will usually have a large number of repeat clients. This is valuable information to know when booking for a couple of reasons: The first is with repeat clients, the outfitter has proved to them that they will have a good hunt or fishing trip and want to come back. The second is that repeat clients usually schedule the same trip at the same time each year. The outfitter will know this and will typically save the dates for those customers.

When asking for references be sure to get the contact information for someone who did the same trip that you are going on. Be respectful of the reference’s time and don’t be afraid to ask them about their experience associated with the information that the outfitter shared with you.

Remember to keep in mind that the outfitter is interviewing you as much as you are interviewing them. Many times they are inviting you into their home, and introducing you to their families. By being honest with them in your experiences and knowledge will increase the chances of a successful, safe and enjoyable experience!

To view the Exlusively Endorsed HuntTheNorth.com Outfitters Click Here!

Top 5 Puppy Training Tips

HuntTheNorth.com’s Canine Corner

Northern Plains Top Retriever Training Tips
By Professional Trainer Wade Stottler

1. Start with a good pup. To increase your odds of ending up with a good retriever, select a pup from a litter with a strong pedigree behind it. Parents with hunt test or field trial titles increase the odds that your pup will have strong drive, good instincts, and trainability. Ideally, you would be able to hunt with the parents to make sure they have the hunting and personality traits you want.

Make sure the parents have health clearances on genetic traits such as the eyes and hips, and talk to the breeder to make sure your pup will not be affected by EIC (exercised induced collapse).

Finding a breeder you can work with and trust will be the final piece of the puzzle. He/she should offer guarantees on the eyes and hips of your pup, but they won’t be worth the paper they are written on if the breeder doesn’t stand behind them. If you are located near the breeder set up an appointment for a visit to see the parents, check on the care of the dogs, and meet the breeder in person. Don’t be afraid to ask for references.

2. Get your pup retrieving early. If your pup has not started retrieving before you pick it up from the breeder, get it started retrieving right away. You will need a bumper small enough for the pup to pick up, and an area to throw the bumper where there is no place to run with it except back to you. We use a number of areas, depending on the time of the year. In the summer we will mow a straight path in the tall grass of a ditch. During the winter we might blow a narrow path through deep snow.

Keep the sessions short and keep them fun. Three to five retrieves per session is plenty, always leave the pup wanting more. Give them a little loving and keep your voice upbeat when they bring the bumper back to you. If you immediately throw it again your pup will soon figure out that the faster they bring the bumper back the sooner they get to chase it again. Keep your throws low, so they stay in your pup’s field of vision. Remember to use no pressure and stay happy during the process.

We recommend you use only various types of training bumpers for retrieving. Using tennis balls or toys for retrieving can lead to various problems, such as hard mouth. Save the toys for when the dog is in it’s kennel.

3. Introduction to birds. When your pup is retrieving bumpers consistently, it’s time to start with birds. Between 6-8 weeks old we start our pups retrieving frozen pigeons. Once it’s comfortable with the frozen pigeons, switch to dead unfrozen birds. The next step is to use a live, clip-wing pigeon for your pup to chase down.

It is fairly common at this point for the puppy to want to keep the bird and not bring it back to you. A simple 50 ft. check cord is the answer to this problem. Pull the pup in hand-over-hand while repeating the “here” command. If the pup drops the bird, ignore it and keep pulling it in. It is more important for your pup to obey the “here” command than it is for it to bring the bird in. The complete retrieve will come with repetition.

As your dog gets older repeat this process with ducks and pheasants. When introducing birds to an older dog, we start with a pheasant hide zip-tied to a 2” bumper, then go with a frozen bird, to an unfrozen bird, to a clip-wing bird.

Stay happy and upbeat during these introductions, you don’t want your dog to associate retrieving birds with something negative or unpleasant.

4. Introduction to the gun. Dogs are not born afraid of gunshots or loud noises, it is a man-made problem. The main idea behind proper introduction to the gun is to associate the noise with something positive for the dog. We will do introduction to the gun after the dog is at least five months old and has developed a strong eagerness to retrieve.

Place an assistant 100 yards away with a primer pistol or a .22 caliber gun loaded with blanks. Take a bumper and get your dog excited to grab it, then throw it in the opposite direction of the gunner. As soon as your dog grabs the bumper raise your hand as a signal for the gunner to shoot into the air.

If your dog ignores the sound and completes the retrieve, make sure to love it up and let it know how happy you are with it. Bring the gunner in twenty yards closer and repeat the process over and over, until at the end of the session your gunner is fifteen yards away. Then have the gunner throw the bumper and shoot the gun while it is in the air. If there are still no problems, repeat the process in a couple of days with a 20 gauge shotgun, (unless you have poppers, make sure the gunner is shooting in a safe direction).

If at any time during the drill your drops the bumper, its ears go back, or it otherwise indicates any signs of nervousness or discomfort, immediately stop the drill. Give your dog some loving and come back in a couple of days and try again with the gunner twenty yards farther away than whenyou ended the drill last time. Be patient and stay upbeat, and give your dog a lot of positive attention. If you have any problems, contact a professional retriever trainer in your area.

5. Introduction to the water. Your puppy can be introduced to the water any time after you bring it home from the breeder. We will wait until the pup has developed an eagerness to retrieve on land before we try the water. That is a good rule to follow in almost every aspect of training. If the dog cannot do it on land, it almost certainly won’t be able to do it in the water. Water makes everything more difficult!
Make sure that the water is warm at the location you choose to start at. We often start with water shallow enough for the pup to run through to the other side. A small, narrow, fairly shallow body of water is ideal. The shore of a big lake can be pretty intimidating to a young dog. A spot with a slow, gradual slope to the water works well for this drill. Start by taking a walk next to the water with your puppy off lead. You might even want to wade out ankle deep and encourage your pup to follow you. If your pup does get in the water, reinforce that action with praise and a little loving. Again, you want the pup to associate the water with something positive.
Whether or not your puppy gets in the water by itself, throw a couple bumpers on land next to the water for it to retrieve. Next, throw one that lands in the water a foot from shore. Get excited if the pup steps into the water and brings the bumper back to you, your pup will feed off of your excitement and get jacked up for the next retrieve! If the first retrieve is successful, gradually throw the next bumpers farther and farther out in the water. Three to five retrieves is plenty, stop the lesson and give your dog a lot of praise and petting. Progress to a little deeper water next time.
If the first retrieve is not successful, remain patient and upbeat, and try again. A good water attitude starts right now in your pup’s training! If you’re not successful after a handful of throws, you should stop the lesson and come back in a few days and try again. There is no set deadline for getting your pup into the water.

WADE STOTTLER
Northern Plains Retrievers
Madison, MN 56256
C 320-894-2274
http://www.northernplainsretrievers.com

Realistic Expectations For A Quality Guided Spring Snow Goose Hunt

By Dan Wennerlind

Make sure to check out all of Our Exclusively Endorsed Snow Goose Outfitters at HuntTheNorth.com

The stories and tales of hunting the millions of snow geese on their trek north each spring with the liberal bag limits, the legalization of unplugged shotguns and the use of electronic game callers have been so over exaggerated through the years that the expectations had by the average hunter anticipating their upcoming spring snow goose hunt are completely unrealistic. In fact, even on the best hunts, most outfitters could never meet the high set expectations had by their hunters, no matter how hard they try.

In an attempt to keep up with their competitors, many outfitters unintentionally add to facaude by boasting high success numbers and showing off photos of hundreds and hundreds of dead snow geese on their websites from past hunts. This leads the average customer / hunter to believe that this is the norm for a standard day of spring snow goose hunting, as they research and review the outfitter’s websites, trying to decide which one to try this year.

The purpose of this article is to put to rest many of the myths about the spring snow goose season and give a realistic viewpoint of what should be expected on a quality guided spring snow goose hunt from not only the outfitter, but the hunter as well.

To start off, I would just like to share my background, to share what qualifies me to write such an article. I have been hunting these crazy white birds every spring since the conservation order was put into effect back in 1995. When the season was first put into place, using decoys was not really the norm, as the birds were very unwary during the first two seasons and many hunters were just excited to just get out and hunt in the spring. Pass shooting and jump shooting were the most popular methods and since the geese were in such big flocks and flew very low, it did not take long to get a limit of 10 snow geese. In fact there were only a handful of outfitters even offering spring hunts during the first two seasons.

After the success had in the first couple springs, it was easy to become addicted. Our group of snow goose hunters quickly evolved from pass shooting to decoying. Enclosed trailers needed to be purchased to hold the massive spreads of snow goose decoys. We started out with the standard silloughettes and wind sock decoy spreads. For several seasons we even purchased a couple hundred floater decoys to try hunting the birds over water. We had a lot of fun and learned a lot about our prey, but soon found that we needed more and more decoys- 200 – 300 decoys just didn’t cut it anymore. We then went big and purchased 500 full body decoys to add to another 500 – 700 windsocks. This not only gave is quantity but quality. That’s when we got serious and started to officially offer guided spring hunts.

For the first several years it was exciting and rewarding. Each spring brought different obstacles to overcome, from not only outsmarting our wary adversaries, but also trying to overcome Mother Nature. From the muddy fields, to flat out blizzards that would come up in a matter of hours and bury an entire spread. We had great success but Mother Nature really took a toll on gear and guides by the end of the season. After a couple of hard seasons of burying trucks in the field and wrecking a 4 wheeler or two, along with picking up spreads of decoys until 2 am in blizzard conditions, we realized there was a better way. We finally figured it out- Let Someone Else Do The Work And ENJOY The Experience.

After starting HuntTheNorth.com in 2003 I had an opportunity to hunt with some of the best snow goose outfitters in the country. Having the previous experience and background, I was not only able to find out the latest techniques being used in the field, but felt qualified to give these outfitters a rating on their hunts. Not just on their success in the field, but their commitment to their customer’s enjoyment and satisfaction as well.

We were then able to share that information with hunters across the country through our website at HuntTheNorth.com. Over the last 8 seasons, I have now had the opportunity to hunt with over 15 different guide services, as well as having the unique opportunity of hunting with 4 different outfitters in 5 consecutive days on one particular trip to Mound City Missouri, home of the infamous Squaw Creek NWR. This not only allowed me to critique each outfitters operation, but gave me the chance to also see how the same birds reacted to 4 different set-ups in 5 consecutive hunts. It was definitely an eye opener, not only to see first hand how the birds reacted, but how the customers reacted as well!

From all of these experiences over the last 16 springs, from being a do-it-yourself hunter, to being an OFFICIAL guide, to hunting with the top outfitters in the country, I have been on every side of the game and feel very confident in having the proper perspective to write this article on What Is A Realistic Expectation On A Quality Guided Spring Snow Goose Hunt.

I would like to start out first by stating that these birds have been hunted and hunted hard for over 15 years now and some of these birds are over 20 years old. They have seen it all and on some days no matter what you do they are not going to decoy. In addition to that, the huge flocks of birds that most of the hunters want to see are the leading edge birds of the migration made up of mostly adult birds that are the smartest all. On some days there is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING that can be done to make a flock of geese decoy into range. That is why I say There Are No Guarantees in spring snow goose hunting.

On a more positive note, I would like to give some basics that can and should be expected on a quality daily guided spring snow goose hunt. First of all, a spread of at least 500 decoys is a minimum. But don’t be upset if the outfitter is using less than 1,000 decoys, each outfitter has their own methods of success. They are the experts, let them do their job. Secondly, many times you are not the only group in camp and you may be hunting with one of the outfitter’s guides rather than the actual outfitter himself, that should be acceptable. Also if the outfitter you are hunting with has several fields he is hunting at the same time, that is also acceptable.

To make a living at this game they usually need to be running more than one spread per day. On top of that, since the birds are continually migrating north, it is also ok to be hunting the same field for more than 2 or 3 days in a row. In fact if the outfitter has a field that has produced over and over for many years, they may hunt the same field for the entire season. This is also ok in the right situation. As far as what to expect for the amount of birds harvested on an average day, there is a lot of gray area there. I will address that shortly.

To finish up on what is expected from the outfitter. If the outfitter has made a commitment to you and your group when you booked the hunt, it should be kept. If you booked a field for your private group, that has to be upheld. It is not your fault if the outfitter is not prepared and tries to put you in with another group because of circumstances that were unexpected on his end. However this does need to be addressed at the time of booking and should not be expected unless there is an agreement about that aspect of the hunt. In addition, it is also an area of the hunt that should be addressed in the initial booking conversation as well as what the maximum amount of hunters that will be in the field during the hunt will be. Again, the terms of the hunt should be crystal clear at booking and they need to be upheld throughout the hunt. You should also expect a phone call or some form of contact from the outfitter the week of the hunt. You should not expect to hear from your outfitter multiple times leading up to the hunt and should try not to be bothersome, as these are very long days with minimal phone service available. Also keep in mind that these hunts are conducted in very rural areas much of the time so specific needs and luxurious accommodations are tough to find.

As far as what is a fair price for your hunt, that will vary depending on what is included in the hunt. Some outfitters do a very nice job of putting together an “All Inclusive Package” for their hunters. This usually includes lodging, meals, bird cleaning etc. Negotiating pricing on these packages is really not fair as this is a business and the outfitter has usually ran the numbers on what he needs to make on a specific hunt for the spring to make it profitable.

If money is an issue for your hunt, look for a daily hunt package rate from an outfitter who offers that type of an option. As for a daily hunt rate, the average fee is $200.00 per day, per hunter. For what these outfitters have involved in their hunts, from equipment to labor, this is a STEAL! The average hunter will pay more in gas in scouting on a do-it-yourself hunt than they will in a fully guided hunt fee with an outfitter and at the end of the day to be able to walk out of the field at dark, successful or not, without having to pick up 500 – 2,000 decoys is a relief in itself. Please do not nickel and dime these outfitters on their prices. This is by far the most labor intensive outfitting business out there- bar none.

Now what are some situations that need to be addressed that are unacceptable. First off, if any specific aspect of the hunt, that was discussed and agreed upon at the time of booking that does not happen, needs to be addressed to the outfitter, not the guide. In fact I do recommend asking for those terms in writing at booking if the outfitter is willing to do so, so there is no miscommunication upon arrival.

Secondly, your outfitter should have a pre-set meeting point the evening before your hunt, to meet your group and give you the itinerary for the upcoming hunt. As for the actual hunt itself, your outfitter or guide should meet you ON TIME at the pre determined meeting point and should not smell of alcohol from the night before. Also, if you are hunting with a guide that Is Not the outfitter, the guide should be a very experienced and well seasoned. It is not ok to have an inexperienced guide trying to call the shots and run the show.

It is ok to have a new guide in training, in the field to help out, but there needs to be a seasoned guide in the field with your group at all times. That being said, the guide runs the show. He knows what he is doing, let him do his job- he calls all the shots. In addition to that, safety should be the number one concern, especially when mixing groups of hunters that do not know each other. Next, if the geese are not cooperating on that specific day it is ok to inquire with your guide why he feels the birds are not decoying well, but it is not ok to start moving decoys around and being upset if the geese are not decoying well. Again, this is spring snow goose hunting…did I mention there are NO GURANTEES!

The spring hunts are also very long days as it does not usually get dark until between 6 – 8 pm as the season progresses. These guides need an afternoon break to keep in good spirits for the entire season, so a “Full Days” hunt should not be expected. Plus the birds usually do not fly all day anyway unless there are severe weather conditions, so give them a break- literally. With this in mind, your guide should enjoy his job. It is not ok for your guide / outfitter to be grumpy and short tempered with your group. Even if the hunting is tough, they need to act in a professional manner at all times. Again, keep in mind, this is hunting and they cannot control the birds, they are doing their best but again THERE ARE NO GURARANTEES when it comes to spring snow goose hunting.

Also remember even the thought of harvesting other species of waterfowl during the spring hunt is completely unacceptable. Expect to see many flocks of other species of waterfowl decoying into the spread but Under No Circumstances should you expect to shoot anything but snow geese or blue geese. It is also very hard to tell the difference from a juvenile white fronted goose and a blue goose. That is why the guide always calls the shots. You should expect a call to the game warden from the guide or outfitter if you do shoot anything but a snow or blue goose and your hunt will definitely be over!

Now for the information that everyone wants to know. How many birds can I expect to shot on an average day, on my guided spring snow goose hunt. Is the answer 100? That seems to be the average spring snow goose hunter’s expectation. Many hunters WANT to shoot 100 birds per day. However, that is completely unrealistic. Does it happen- Yes. Should you expect it- Absolutely Not!

This aspect of the spring snow goose conservation season is very troubling for me. I run into so many hunters who complain that they did not have a successful spring hunt because they did not shoot 100 geese. And at the end of their hunt many of those hunters don’t even want to take home their birds. That is completely unethical!

I would like to share one story to illustrate this point. I shared a pit with a group of four hunters who were repeat customers from the year before with this particular outfitter. In the previous season they had hunted the exact same field with this outfitter. The first day they shot 96 geese. The second day they shot 123 geese. It was what many snow goose hunters dream for and deem a successful hunt. However this particular spring the hunting was tougher with an unsuccessful juvenile hatch from the spring before. During the two days hunt, the first day the 5 of us shot 22 geese and the second day we shot 44 geese. After the second day the group stormed out of the field very upset at the lack of birds shot during their trip and did not tip the outfitter because they failed to meet their goal of 100 birds per day. To top if off, they actually left all of their geese in the field when they left because they didn’t want any of the geese to take home anyway. They just wanted to kill a lot of geese and go home….

The most common question asked to the outfitter that I hear when I am participating on a guided hunt from the average group is- “What do YOU do with all of these birds?” They actually expect the outfitter to get rid of their birds for them. It just makes me sick. And the problem is, THIS IS THE NORMAL EXPECTATION. They want 100 birds dead at the end of the day and they don’t want to take any of them home. Now the outfitter may offer a cleaning service for an additional fee and they may know of a charity place that takes the geese but don’t expect that and don’t expect the outfitter to take your birds… you shot them, they are YOUR responsibilty!

Here is what can and should be expected on a typical day’s snow goose hunt:

-Your guide should meet you on time at a pre-set meeting point.
-You should show up to a pre-set field of at least 500 decoys.
-You should have an upbeat, passionate, experienced guide.
-Your shots should be between 30 – 50 yards. They should not be further than that.
-Your guide may carry a gun to help shoot cripples. Your guide should not shoot first and boast of the birds he shot.
-You should expect to take a 2 – 4 hour mid day break.
-You should not have more than 6 hunters in the field unless that has been addressed prior to the hunt.
-You will most likely be placed with another group of hunters if you do not have a group of six hunters.
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Now for what most hunters Do Not want to hear. What is expected of YOU on the hunt:

-You should make payment in full for the hunt, in advance or upon arrival.
-You should have your license pre purchased and have all necessary personal equipment ready upon arrival.
-Drinking alcohol prior to or during the hunt is prohibited.
-Shooting or expecting to shoot other species of waterfowl is prohibited.
-Complaining that the geese will not decoy close enough is unacceptable.
-Shooting without the guide calling the shot is unacceptable.
-Having your well trained dog in the field should be acceptable- but ask first.
-Being asked to put your untrained, obnoxious dog back in the truck is acceptable.
-Having expections of shooting 100 birds per day is unacceptable.
-Showing up to the hunt with the sole reason of shooting your gun as many times as you can is unacceptable.
-Expecting the guide to dispose of your harvested birds is COMPLETELY unacceptable!
-Being curtious to your fellow hunters and the guide is expected
(No one likes a game hog).
-Having a positive attitude and ENJOYING the overall experience is expected.
-Tipping your guide for a job well done is expected.
-Going home and enjoying eating the game you harvested is Expected- if you don’t like the taste of snow geese find a new recepie or find something else to hunt!
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Now, with the way the spring weather patterns are, I highly recommend booking a 3 day hunt and here is why- the spring weather patterns are so unpredictable, the birds can migrate hundreds of miles on any given day if the conditions are right. On average I have found that, during any 3 day period throughout the spring season, there will be one day of “excellent hunting” meaning harvesting 35+ snow geese for the group. There will be one “average day” which I consider average to be up to 15 birds for the group and there will be one “poor day” where the birds just will not decoy no matter what.

I consider a poor day from 0 – 10 birds for the group. If you choose to book a hunt package of less than 3 days, expect to gamble into those three categories. At the end of the day, unless you have made prior arrangements with your outfitter, you are expected to take your share of birds with you and field dress them properly. After the hunt, if you feel that your guide has met the “realistic expectations” of the hunt, you should tip your guide on a job well done. They work their butts off and even if you have a tough day of hunting in the field, it is not their fault.

So what should you do if something happens during the hunt that falls into the “Unacceptable” category with your outfitter. Whether it is putting extra hunters in with your group after you were promised your own field or having a guide with you on his first ever snow goose hunt. Many things can happen. It is up to you how to handle each circumstance but one point I would like to make is bring it up to the outfitter on the spot face to face. I have heard way too many stories of hunters telling the outfitter what a good time they had and then they go home and bad mouth the outfitter to everyone they know and blab all over the internet what a terrible time they had.

If you have a serious concern, try and bring it up with the outfitter in private after the hunt and try and work out a fair compromise. If they did you wrong, you should be entitled to a discount on your hunt, maybe an extra day or a discount on a future hunt. Again this will be between you and the outfitter but remaining calm and trying to work through a situation always works better than a yelling match or worse yet saying nothing at all and feeling taken advantage of. Also try and put yourself in the outfitter’s shoes and see the situation for what it is. That is the best advice that I can give.
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I would like to end this article with an analogy that I feel puts this hunt in perspective. Think of an average fall waterfowl hunting season. You most likely have a group of 2 – 4 good hunting buddies that you spend time with in your favorite hunting spot throughout the season. Think about how many ducks you and your group shot last fall. I would say that the average group, depending on circumstances and time in the field may shoot 75 – 100 ducks in a season and a limit of 6 ducks per hunter would be a very successful day in the field. For the average waterfowl hunter to harvest 100 ducks in an entire year, that would probably be a successful year.

Now let’s say at the end of the season you took 100 mallards and pintails etc and just threw them into the trash uncleaned because you didn’t like the taste of the birds or were just too lazy to clean them. What would your buddies say? Or more appropriately would that be ethical? Of course not, it would be unheard of and if someone found 100 dead ducks in a dumpster by your house there would be a serious investigation. Now go back to a “Typical Spring Snow Goose Hunt”. You book your hunt and expect to shoot 100 snow geese every day for 3 days. Your group has an amazing hunt and you actually come home with 300 geese. Now What?

Everything in moderation is my thought. If you feel that harvesting 15 geese during the hunt is enough for you and watching your dog make an amazing retrieve on a white goose standing in a black field at 300 yards made the trip more successful than sitting in the garage cleaning 50 geese after a long trip home, that you don’t particularly like the taste of anyway, then stop shooting after you get 15 geese. Maybe just enjoying a flock of speckle belly geese cruising over your blind at 10 yards is enjoyment in itself rather than pleading with your guide to let you break the law where he can lose his lively hood, just so you can shoot your gun one more time that day.

The spring snow goose hunting season is an amazing experience and should be enjoyed by all passionate waterfowl hunters at least once. Seeing the big flocks of 1,000 – 100,000 snow geese circling over head is a sight to behold. Having a few of them actually touch down in the spread is a feat that is hard to accomplish. Taking a bag limit of 5 -10 adult snow geese should be a successful day in anyone’s book. Enjoying time in the field outside of the traditional fall season should be considered a gift not a right. Book your hunt, enjoy a trip with a reputable outfitter, we have several that we highly recommend right here on our website at HuntTheNorth.com with full reviews for you to read about our personal experiences with them. Have fun with it. Don’t go into the hunt with unrealistic expectations and bring your kid and your camera and enjoy one of nature’s most unique experiences – the spring snow goose migration!

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